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Post by Tungus on Sept 13, 2007 4:36:35 GMT -5
This thread is meant to address the legal aspects of guitar building.
There is NO law saying you cant build your own guitar, however........if you intend to sell what you build for profit, There is a TON of red tape to deal with.
1. All manufacturers have some sort of license(s)/ patent(s) that says you can not copy their design and or production process. You can not duplicate anything (exactly) visually or in physical dimension.
In essence, to cover your ass, you have to hire a patent attorney to conduct a search. This adds to your operating costs, thus jacking the price of your product up. The customer absorbs this cost. (shitty I say).
2. Wood: I personally do not see a good supply of QUALITY grained wood available to the general public for the next 10 years. Example: Koa. A good Koa blank measuring 17x22x 8/4 runs $550 for 5A grade right now (Sept of 07). This wood will NEVER drop in cost due to its rarity. Alder runs $65 for the same sized blank.
3. Hardware: Unless you own a machine shop, get ready to pay a premium. Example. an original Floyd rose will run $280 anywhere you look.
4. Electronics: This is where it pays off to learn how to DIY. Pickup winders are cheap....under 400 bux. A basic understanding of continuity and impedance (resistance) is all you need here. Duncan and DiMarzio will hype how much of a science it is to get a good tone from a pickup.... in reality, its all remedial math.
5. Fabrication: Here is where the actual skill comes into play. Have the right tools and the patience, along with the ethic to craft a quality product and you will succeed. It may take 10 years, but word of mouth......lip service....is the best and cheapest advert there is.
6. Sales: No one is going to come to you. You have to go sell yourself (your product) to prospective dealers and distributors.
*(IMO, ALL salespeople are professional liars. Sadly, they are a necessary evil).
More to come as time allows.
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Post by Torkin on Sept 13, 2007 9:54:42 GMT -5
Yeah tell us more Tungus. Also post pics of your creations, I'd love to see them
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Post by Stefvorcide on Sept 13, 2007 9:56:18 GMT -5
true man, true.
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Post by Tungus on Oct 26, 2007 14:48:18 GMT -5
I was lookin at the Schecter Damien 7 and got to thinkin...."How the hell can I make the equivalant cheaper"? Cant. Musicians Freind has them for $400 right now. Could be done if there was no labor involved. *kicks @ dirt. Just ruined my day =/
Pics of lil joe are comin. Still rubbing it with a diaper so the laquer settles PERFECT. Its been sealed and guide coats put on. Color sanding is almost done. Ill take pics tonight.
Lil Joe is the S540R Marie saved from a pawn shop. OK, I found it, she snuck out and bought it on me heh.
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Post by Tungus on Nov 11, 2007 21:32:09 GMT -5
Well...... After 15 coats of black laquer, rubbing out after each coat with 5/0 steel wool....only had 3 more coats to go. What do I do?
Try to add a coat when im piss drunk.
Try is the key word here.
Woke up the next morning to find 2 runs/saggers. WHOA was I pissed at myself. I stewed over it for 2 weeks before I went and wetsanded em out tonight. So 5 more coats because I was a dumbass. Impatient drunk dumbass at that.
Moral: Never paint drunk.......EVER!
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Post by mattjem7vwh on Nov 11, 2007 23:34:08 GMT -5
15 coats! the queens damned corgi's don't have that many coats!
your patience is inspirational kev!
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Post by Tungus on Nov 12, 2007 1:30:52 GMT -5
Before yall start sending hate mail.....
Laquer is meant to be spayed in many thin coats. Most ppl that have been around spray paint (enamel) knows that 1 to 2 coats is plenty.
Laquer is a total bitch to lay right. Everything has to be totaly clean and the surface has to be flat...... otherwise it looks like ass when dry. Thus why I was so pist at myself over it.
Im not raggin on ya Matt. Im just still stewing over it. I know better.
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Post by Tungus on Dec 22, 2007 23:26:02 GMT -5
This minirant is on scaloping. Scaloping was pretty much made famous by Yngwie. Everyone wanted to emulate his gear thus the craze was born. I love the feel of a scaloped fretboard. It just feels better to me anyways. Its not too difficult to DIY but here are some things to help ya out if ya want to try it on your baby. 1. Its better to scalop with the frets off of the fretboard using a router and a stip jig. This isnt allways practical because most people dont have $300-400 worth of powertool and bits laying around. 2. The scalops DO NOT have to be deep. Ive found that an 1/8th of an inch is adequate so your fingertips arent touching the board in most cases......unless youre really digging in. 3/16ths is plenty. Besides, you dont want to dig into that trussrod cavity AT ALL! It will also look cleaner when done. 3. The economy way to do it.... Using a Dremel or any rotory tool for that matter with a drum sanding attatchment will work. You just have to make sure you tape the frets up REALLY well or you will have disaster...and probably a refret to deal with. I double tape with nothing but 3M masking tape. The best there is. You can do it by hand and feel, but it may turn out bad in the end. I fabricated a jig to hold the tool (Dremel) stationary and slide the neck slowly into it. Same concept as a mill press in machining. Concentrate on making smooth and slow passes so everything looks clean. Small increments is the key. 1/2- 1MM passes at a time. 3 or 4 passes is all thats needed for each space between frets. Youll have to have at least 3 different size drums to get between all of the frets. If you have a 24 fretter..... look foreward to alot of hand sanding and ALLWAYS with the grain of the wood. As soon as I find my camera, Ill take pics of the next job I do. (Im kinda thinkin it got stolen out of my truck while I was at work ) It really does add a new dimension in feel and playability. Depending on the neck, I usually charge $75-125 for this and include a leveling and dressing free. Mostly because its the right thing to do anyways. Could be a good way to earn a lil extra coin for ya when ya get good at it.
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Post by Stefvorcide on Dec 23, 2007 1:27:01 GMT -5
dude, didnt you you were scallopin' necks.
Btw for all us jackson users, thy sharktin inlays arent deep, so the whole finish could be lost when scalloped.
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Post by Torkin on Dec 23, 2007 7:44:08 GMT -5
I always wondered, since I have Xjumbo frets on my fiddles (and my fingers arent touching the fretboard at all) what difference would it make if I had it scalloped?
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Post by Tungus on Dec 23, 2007 11:07:22 GMT -5
I always wondered, since I have Xjumbo frets on my fiddles (and my fingers arent touching the fretboard at all) what difference would it make if I had it scalloped? In all honesty, if you have #6100 frets (jumbos) you dont need scaloping. It only benefits your playing if you have smaller frets. Custom inlayed necks should never be scaloped. The chances of ruining the fretboard are too great. In that case, I would just refret with 6100s or 6150s.
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Post by Tungus on Dec 7, 2008 0:41:48 GMT -5
New aquisition:
36" belt sander. Ill be in heaven till the bill comes in.
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Post by moshwitz on Dec 7, 2008 18:43:39 GMT -5
This minirant is on scaloping. Scaloping was pretty much made famous by Yngwie. Everyone wanted to emulate his gear thus the craze was born. I love the feel of a scaloped fretboard. It just feels better to me anyways. Its not too difficult to DIY but here are some things to help ya out if ya want to try it on your baby. 1. Its better to scalop with the frets off of the fretboard using a router and a stip jig. This isnt allways practical because most people dont have $300-400 worth of powertool and bits laying around. 2. The scalops DO NOT have to be deep. Ive found that an 1/8th of an inch is adequate so your fingertips arent touching the board in most cases......unless youre really digging in. 3/16ths is plenty. Besides, you dont want to dig into that trussrod cavity AT ALL! It will also look cleaner when done. 3. The economy way to do it.... Using a Dremel or any rotory tool for that matter with a drum sanding attatchment will work. You just have to make sure you tape the frets up REALLY well or you will have disaster...and probably a refret to deal with. I double tape with nothing but 3M masking tape. The best there is. You can do it by hand and feel, but it may turn out bad in the end. I fabricated a jig to hold the tool (Dremel) stationary and slide the neck slowly into it. Same concept as a mill press in machining. Concentrate on making smooth and slow passes so everything looks clean. Small increments is the key. 1/2- 1MM passes at a time. 3 or 4 passes is all thats needed for each space between frets. Youll have to have at least 3 different size drums to get between all of the frets. If you have a 24 fretter..... look foreward to alot of hand sanding and ALLWAYS with the grain of the wood. As soon as I find my camera, Ill take pics of the next job I do. (Im kinda thinkin it got stolen out of my truck while I was at work ) It really does add a new dimension in feel and playability. Depending on the neck, I usually charge $75-125 for this and include a leveling and dressing free. Mostly because its the right thing to do anyways. Could be a good way to earn a lil extra coin for ya when ya get good at it. I have done many a fretboard in the past,,and These are solid words of advice gents,, I couldn't have written it any better ;D Also I "+1" on the 3M tape doubled up, don't settle for the cheap shit in the end it is just not worth it,,I also use Zip ties across the frets for added security when scalloping. I usually use a Dremel tool also,,but have also done some of my best work with half round wood files in progressively finer grades ending in sandpaper and a pencil or finger. And +1 DO be careful of how deep you go,, not all inlays are created equal,even on the same guitar. like this.. I blew through the inlay at the 7th on one of my old Strats i had done, and it was shallower than the 3rd and 5th fret.. at the time i was doing this one i also did my PGM Ibanez,, but somebody wanted them both before i even finished them soooooo...... off they went. I wish i had some pics of my real work,, but that was looooong before i owned a computer let alone a digi camera Never be afraid to learn how to DYI,, it just takes a little practice,,go get a POS from the pawn shop or goodwill and have a go,,it is very satisfying when you learn how to build or modify,,,well was for me anyway ;D MOSHON DAVE
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Post by Tungus on Dec 10, 2008 20:52:09 GMT -5
dAVE KNOWS HIS SHIT. hES COPETITION... BUT HES KING
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Post by moshwitz on Dec 10, 2008 21:38:01 GMT -5
dAVE KNOWS HIS SHIT. hES COPETITION... BUT HES KING AWW Shucks NAA, I rarely do any work anymore,,and when i did it was only for myself or close friends,,,, I'm no competition bro KING? hmmmmm....... ehhhh......more of a traveling minstrel MOSHON DAVE
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